From Reykjavík to Skógafoss: A Perfect Day of Café Culture, Icelandic Shopping, and Scenic Hiking

On the fourth day in Iceland, Myles and I ventured into Grái Kötturinn, a cozy cafe in downtown Reykjavik. Known as The Grey Cat, this hidden gem was a short drive from Reykjavik Lights, though finding parking downtown proved to be an adventure in itself. After weaving through side streets, we finally located a spot within walking distance and made our way to the cafe after paying a parking fee of 1,800 ISK.

The atmosphere of Grái Kötturinn is comparable to an old library. The dim lighting casted a soft glow along the wooden tables, while shelves lined with well-worn books added to the cozy atmosphere. We slid into a corner bench, surrounded by plush stools, and browsed the menu for breakfast. At the counter, I ordered freshly squeezed orange juice, black coffee, and a large order of pancakes accompanied by crispy bacon.

As the food arrived, I quickly learned large meant large at Grái Kötturinn. What I pictured in my head as normal-sized pancakes turned out to be a towering stack. The pancakes were fluffy and rich, soaked with maple syrup, which paired perfectly with the salty crunch of the bacon. Despite my best efforts, I managed to eat half of the enormous stack. Though the meal was expensive, and I did not finish the pancakes, it was one of those meals which made me regret nothing.

Shopping in Reykjavik

After our breakfast, Myles and I made our way to the Handknitters Association of Iceland, a quaint shop brimming with traditional Icelandic craftsmanship. The shelves were lined with handmade sweaters, hats, gloves, and more. I had an eye on a beautiful wool sweater, its intricate design a testament to the skill of the artisans. The cost was steep, though understandable given the craftsmanship involved. In the end, I opted for a handmade red and blue beanie instead.

From there, we headed to a 66 North Outlet, a stark contrast to the traditional charm of the Handknitters Association. The store had a sleek, modern design with neatly arranged racks of outdoor gear, perfect for Iceland’s unpredictable weather. I couldn’t resist a neon orange hoodie, emblazoned with a map of Iceland on the rear side. It was a splurge, but more affordable than a handmade sweater. With the store nearly empty, the checkout process was smooth. I opted for duty-free, of which I later had to handle at the airport before leaving Iceland.

Skógafoss

After leaving the 66 North Outlet, Myles and I returned briefly to the hotel to drop off our purchases and grab our hiking gear. With our Gor-tex jackets and rain pants in tow, we set off for Skógafoss, one of Iceland’s iconic waterfalls. The drive from Reykjavik to Skógafoss was scenic but wet. The rain never let-up, turning the landscape into a misty, ethereal dream. By the time we arrived at the waterfall, the rain was steady, but it didn’t deter a swarm of tourists eager to experience Skógafoss in person.

We parked and donned our Gor-tex gear, ensuring everything was zipped, sealed, and covered to combat the rain. With the sound of rushing water growing louder, we walked toward the base of the waterfall. The sheer size of Skógafoss is breathtaking, an unrelenting cascade of water plummeting into a misty pool below. I managed to snap photos without drenching my camera, though keeping it dry was a feat in itself. After soaking in the sight, and plenty of rain, we ascended the staircase which leads to the observation deck above the waterfall.

Despite the rain, the hike was stunning. Beyond the main falls, we explored the trail system, which meanders past smaller waterfalls and steep natural overlooks. As we continued the hike, the crowd thinned, which left Myles and I along the rain-slicked trail. The hike was near perfect, but Myles had a miscalculation. Myles wore low-top waterproof hiking shoes. The constant rain, coupled with the wind and movement, allowed for water to seep into the shoes and socks. After toughing it out for a mile, Myles asked to return to the parking lot. Aside from wet hands, I stayed dry.

The Skogafoss waterfall plunging into a pool below, surrounded by green mossy cliffs.
A hiking trail beyond the Skogafoss waterfall, surrounded by lush green hills.

Once we reached the base of Skógafoss, we peeled off our rain layers and hopped into the car, ready for a warm meal. We drove to the nearby Hotel Skógafoss, where we both ordered lamb burgers and ginger ale. The restaurant’s elegant setting was a welcome contrast to our damp, muddied boots, though no one complained since we kept our clothes were dry. The lamb was tender, and flavorful, the perfect end to an unforgettable, rain-soaked adventure on the south coast of Iceland.